Sebastian, our guide, pulls up Google Maps to show us exactly where on the Antarctic Peninsula we are headed

We spent most of Thursday and Friday (Mar 13 &14) outrunning the weather. The Autumn season has begun in Antarctica. The coves and bays are getting icier – more ‘bergy bits’ floating around. On Thursday our zodiacs launched from Fournier Bay. On Friday we anchored off Goudier Island. Both days had less than ideal conditions: sleet, snow and moderate (15-20 mph) winds. Temperature on both days hovered right at 0C/32F.

The zodiac cruises last just about 2 hours. Passengers are broken into 6 groups. Three groups will launch between 8-9 AM and the remaining three groups depart 9:30-10 AM. Once everyone is back on board, the Captain moves the ship to a different area. The zodiacs are relaunched for the afternoon excursions around 1 PM.

The crew that drive the zodiacs and assist on landings are seriously top-notch. They are biologists, geologists and every other scientist one can think of. We are getting PhD level commentary – in an entertaining way in the most spectacular environment. The crew are also from everywhere in the world and most speak several languages. They are supremely patient and assist those of differing abilities with equal consideration.

Every evening, the expedition officer ‘Cloud’ has a mandatory briefing/debriefing for all passengers. She goes over the weather charts for the next day and notes changes the Captain has made to our position. She also discusses what activities will be taking place.

Conditions have to be near perfect to launch kayaks. Kayaking is the only expedition activity that passengers have to sign up for in advance. It also requires participants to undertake an additional 45 minute training session.

Map sourced from i2.wp.com via ChatGPT
Champagne break at 10 AM
A full whale carcass is now a penguin playground
This Weddell seal is the world’s southernmost breeding mammal. It eats mostly fish. Unique to the breed, they chew air holes in the ice. This allows them to dive deeper and further away from the ice sheets. They have exceptional internal compasses that allow them to locate the holes they’ve made for air access. Looking at them you would think they are slow and clumsy. Definitely not the case.
The British research team that lived on the small island had left a week before our arrival. We are the last passenger ship to pass through Antarctica as the season ends in March.
Penguin chain gang. They are endlessly entertaining.

We have been in Ushuaia, Argentina since 8 AM Tuesday, March 18th. We had to hasten our departure from Antarctica because of expected storms Tuesday (today) here in Ushuaia. If the winds go above 45 MPH they close the port. Of course, nature messed with us and today is the most spectacular day we have had the whole trip. It is sunny and warm – though the winds are still kicking. I will add some photos from our time here in Ushuaia tonight – if we get a good WiFi connection.

We are having a great time on this adventure. I have been a bit sad, though, to have missed celebrating Josie’s 20th birthday with her. I know she is being well taken care of this week while she’s on Spring Break. Family and friends have her booked solid. I’m really grateful to everyone for their love and care of Josie.

xoxo Michele

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I’m Michele

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